"In general, when we say quality, we mean quite a few different, but related things :
We want our clothes to be durable, to last more than a couple of seasons. We want sturdy clothes garments that we can move in without having to worry about ripping seams or popping buttons. We want our clothes to keep the same shape they had when we bought them, and to neither stretch out nor shrink over time. We want things that fit the shape of our body, not distort our silhouette or restrict our movements. We don't want fabric that pills or fades after wearing or washing it a couple of times. We want our clothes to feel good on the skin, so we can enjoy wearing them instead of taking them off as soon as we get home. And lastly, we also want our clothes to look like high-quality garments. A smooth fabric, neat seams, beautiful detailing. Not something that is about to fall apart." https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/01/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-i
"The hands-down most important component of a garment is its fabric. No matter how beautiful the details or how well-crafted the seams are, a garment made from a flimsy, scratchy or pilling fabric is never a good addition to any wardrobe.
When assessing the fabric of a garment you need to look out for two separate things:
the quality of the fabric itself how suitable the fabric is for that particular item"
"Start with the inside of the garment: A very common way to sew seams is to serge them. A serged seam has that distinct zig-zag pattern, and is one of the fastest, cheapest ways to seam a garment. Now, even though serged seams are not particularly strong, they are completely fine for finishing edges on garments like t-shirts and lightweight shirts, particularly when the edge is folded under first (like on the top right picture). What they are no good for is load-bearing seams, i.e. any seam that connects two pieces of fabrics, like side seams on trousers, shoulder seams and also the hemlines of items made from heavier fabrics. Because load-bearing seams are under constant tension they should be created using a more secure method, e.g. using double stitches (two rows of stitches close to each other), French seams (the fabric edges of each piece of fabric are folded under and then sewn together) or bound seams (the fabric edges are each folded under and then enclosed in a strip of fabric, like on the top left picture)." https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/
"Items like shirts, blouses, jackets and non-stretchy dresses and tops should have darts on the front and under the bust to pull in the bottom of the item to your waist and make sure the fabric underneath the bustline does not bulge or hang. The seams on the shoulders of jackets and tailored tops should be reinforced to prevent them from becoming stretched out over time. Something that many budget manufacturers skip is a seam down the center of the back. Your back is not flat, which is why a square piece of fabric will never look as good as a piece with at least one if not multiple back seams that follow the curve of your back. Stretchy tops do not necessarily need a back seam, but definitely look for one on jackets and coats. Many high-quality shirts and blouses have a shoulder yoke, which is an extra piece of fabric that sits on your shoulders and around the neckline, connecting the front and back piece of the shirt. A shoulder yoke is not a must, but it does allow for a neater fit around the shoulders and a smoother drape across the front and back. Another way cheaper brands save money is by skipping facings and interfacings. An interfacing is an extra piece of fabric sewn in between the outer layer and the lining of a piece to support its structure and keep it from stretching out, for example along the shoulders or button placket. The only way to figure out whether a garment includes an interfacing is to feel it with your hands. A facing is a piece of fabric that encloses the raw edges inside a garment opening, e.g. around the waistband, the sleeve opening, the neckline or the collar, to protect the seams and help the garment keep its shape. No matter how professionally a piece was tailored, if it does not match the outlines and proportions of your body, it is not a great choice for you. That is why you should always try on an item and move around in it. Raise your arms for example. Neither the shoulders nor the side of the garment should rise as well. If they do, the item was either not well-tailored or does not fit you well. The same goes for skirts and dresses that ride up and tops that leave a pool of fabric above your bustline." https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/01/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-i
ReplyDelete"In general, when we say quality, we mean quite a few different, but related things :
ReplyDeleteWe want our clothes to be durable, to last more than a couple of seasons. We want sturdy clothes garments that we can move in without having to worry about ripping seams or popping buttons. We want our clothes to keep the same shape they had when we bought them, and to neither stretch out nor shrink over time. We want things that fit the shape of our body, not distort our silhouette or restrict our movements. We don't want fabric that pills or fades after wearing or washing it a couple of times. We want our clothes to feel good on the skin, so we can enjoy wearing them instead of taking them off as soon as we get home. And lastly, we also want our clothes to look like high-quality garments. A smooth fabric, neat seams, beautiful detailing. Not something that is about to fall apart."
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/01/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-i
"The hands-down most important component of a garment is its fabric. No matter how beautiful the details or how well-crafted the seams are, a garment made from a flimsy, scratchy or pilling fabric is never a good addition to any wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteWhen assessing the fabric of a garment you need to look out for two separate things:
the quality of the fabric itself
how suitable the fabric is for that particular item"
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/01/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-i
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/
ReplyDelete"Start with the inside of the garment: A very common way to sew seams is to serge them. A serged seam has that distinct zig-zag pattern, and is one of the fastest, cheapest ways to seam a garment. Now, even though serged seams are not particularly strong, they are completely fine for finishing edges on garments like t-shirts and lightweight shirts, particularly when the edge is folded under first (like on the top right picture). What they are no good for is load-bearing seams, i.e. any seam that connects two pieces of fabrics, like side seams on trousers, shoulder seams and also the hemlines of items made from heavier fabrics. Because load-bearing seams are under constant tension they should be created using a more secure method, e.g. using double stitches (two rows of stitches close to each other), French seams (the fabric edges of each piece of fabric are folded under and then sewn together) or bound seams (the fabric edges are each folded under and then enclosed in a strip of fabric, like on the top left picture)."
ReplyDeletehttps://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/
"Items like shirts, blouses, jackets and non-stretchy dresses and tops should have darts on the front and under the bust to pull in the bottom of the item to your waist and make sure the fabric underneath the bustline does not bulge or hang.
ReplyDeleteThe seams on the shoulders of jackets and tailored tops should be reinforced to prevent them from becoming stretched out over time.
Something that many budget manufacturers skip is a seam down the center of the back. Your back is not flat, which is why a square piece of fabric will never look as good as a piece with at least one if not multiple back seams that follow the curve of your back. Stretchy tops do not necessarily need a back seam, but definitely look for one on jackets and coats.
Many high-quality shirts and blouses have a shoulder yoke, which is an extra piece of fabric that sits on your shoulders and around the neckline, connecting the front and back piece of the shirt. A shoulder yoke is not a must, but it does allow for a neater fit around the shoulders and a smoother drape across the front and back.
Another way cheaper brands save money is by skipping facings and interfacings. An interfacing is an extra piece of fabric sewn in between the outer layer and the lining of a piece to support its structure and keep it from stretching out, for example along the shoulders or button placket. The only way to figure out whether a garment includes an interfacing is to feel it with your hands. A facing is a piece of fabric that encloses the raw edges inside a garment opening, e.g. around the waistband, the sleeve opening, the neckline or the collar, to protect the seams and help the garment keep its shape.
No matter how professionally a piece was tailored, if it does not match the outlines and proportions of your body, it is not a great choice for you. That is why you should always try on an item and move around in it. Raise your arms for example. Neither the shoulders nor the side of the garment should rise as well. If they do, the item was either not well-tailored or does not fit you well. The same goes for skirts and dresses that ride up and tops that leave a pool of fabric above your bustline."
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/
https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-cheat-sheet/
ReplyDelete